Canadian Wine Industry's VQA Program
An Appellation System Assuring 100% Domestically Grown Grapes
Sep 11, 2009
Although the making of quality wine is relatively new to Canada, wine has been made here for some time. Winemaking practices were brought to this country with the arrival of the first European immigrants. In 1866, the first commercial winery, called Vin Villa, was established on Pelee Island. Unfortunately, it was believed that vitis vinifera, the European grape varieties that we are most familiar with today, would not be able to survive the harsh Canadian winters, so grape growers and winemakers relied on the North American labrusca varieties, such as Concord and Niagara, and a few hardy hybrids.
1988, A Significant Year in Canadian Wine
The year 1988 proved to be a significant year for Canadian winemaking. Canada entered into the North American Free Trade Agreement which lifted tarrifs on imported wine that had previously protected the domestic wine industry. Despite theories that this was the end of Canadian wine, it turned out to be a new beginning. Canadian winemakers knew they had to create a product that would be able to hold its own, in terms of quality, against the onslaught of imported wine filling liquor store shelves. Inferior grape varieties were pulled out and many vineyards were replanted with the higher quality vinifera varieties. Modern viticultural and vinification techniques were employed and the wines of Canada, particularly those of Ontario and Britich Columbia, began to improve.
That same year, the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) was established in Ontario to help promote the province's wine. At first it was a voluntary organization, but in 1999 the VQA Act was passed by the legislature of Ontario, making VQA Ontario the designated wine authority. There are now legal consequences for violating the Act.
British Columbia Joins VQA
In 1990, the VQA system was implemented in British Columbia, but while it is obligatory for Ontario wineries to join, it remains optional in British Columbia.
Quebec and Nova Scotia have not yet joined VQA mainly because of their widespread use of North American grape varieties and hybrids, which are not sanctioned under VQA. They are currently in negotiations.
Appellations Indicate a Sense of 'Place'
Wines bearing the VQA logo come from specific appellations, or wine regions. The appellations indicate a sense of 'place' or, what the French call, "terroir". Although there is no direct English translation for this French term, "terroir" can be thought of, very simply, as the whole natural environment of a vineyard site. It refers to the soil, topography, and climate. The various types and combinations of each of these factors is unique to each site and is believed to contribute to the flavours, aromas, and style of the wine. The terroir of a particular place cannot be replicated elsewhere.
The so-called "Old World" wine producing nations in Europe have been talking about terroir for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Canada has really only been making quality wine for the last three decades and it takes time to discover what different pieces of land can contribute to a wine. The recent addition of the sub-appellations in the Niagara Peninsula is an indication that differences in terroir are being recognized. Canadian winemakers and viticulturalists are also beginning to identify the unique characteristics of even smaller parcels of land (ie: single vineyard sites), and we're seeing more and more single vineyard names printed on wine labels.
In Ontario, there are four Designated Viticultural Areas (DVAs) that may be named on the label of VQA wine: Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore, Pelee Island, and Prince Edward County. Within the Niagara Peninsula, ten sub-appellations have been identified.
In British Columbia, there are five DVAs: Okanagan Valley, Fraser Valley, Similkameen Valley, Gulf Islands, and Vancouver Island. The Okanagan Valley has five officially recognized sub-appellations.
VQA Wines Are Tested to Ensure All Standards are Met
There are standards and regulations that a wine must meet in order for it to be designated as VQA. The wine must be made entirely from grapes grown in the specific appellation named on the label, and they must be produced to a set of production standards. The wine must also pass a taste test by a panel of trained tasters. The grapes used must be vitis vinifera varieties or from an approved list of hybrids, such as Baco Noir and Vidal. The ripeness level of the grapes at harvest, winemaking techniques, labelling, and sensory and chemical criteria of the finished wine are also strictly regulated.
'Cellared in Canada' Wines are Made Mostly of Imported Grapes
While wines bearing the VQA symbol are a guarantee that the grapes are 100% from the DVA named on the label, wines that are simply labelled as 'Cellared in Canada' are made mostly of bulk wine imported from such places as Chile or California. In Ontario, wineries producing this type of wine are required to use at least 30% domestic wine in the blend. British Columbia has no such regulation, but some BC wineries will label the wines as 'Bottled in British Columbia' while indicating the country of origin. Cellared in Canada wines can be very confusing for consumers as they are usually sold as Canadian wine on the shelves of government and privately run liquor and wine stores.
Look for the VQA Logo on the Bottle
In order to be sure that you are purchasing wine produced from 100% domestically grown grapes, look for the distinctive VQA logo either on the neck of the bottle or the back label. Only then will you be guaranteed that the wine is truly Canadian.
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