The Emergence of Biodynamic Wine in Canada
Southbrook Vineyards - Canada's First Certified Biodynamic Vineyards
Sep 24, 2009
While 2008 marked the year of Canada’s first certified biodynamic winery, biodynamic methods are not new to grape growing. Many outstanding wine producers in Europe and around the world have been practicing biodynamic viticulture for some time. Some of the more famous producers are: Domaine de la Romanée Conti and Domaine Leflaive, in Burgundy; Chapoutier, in the Rhône; Coulée de Serrant, in the Loire; and Chateau La Tour Figeac and Pontet Canet, in Bordeaux. There are also many biodynamic grape growers and wine producers in Italy, Germany, and Austria, as well as the USA, Australia, Chile, New Zealand, and now Canada. There are also a few Canadian wineries who practice this form of extreme organic viticulture but who have not undergone the certification process. Tawse Winery in Niagara, for example, practices biodynamic viticulture but is not officially certified.
“Amazing, Vibrant Wines come From Grapes that are Raised Biodynamically.”
Ann Sperling, director of viticulture and winemaking at Southbrook Vineyards, said in a press release last fall, “There’s one thing we know for sure, amazing, vibrant wines come from grapes that are raised biodynamically.”
In the same press release, Southbrook’s owner, Bill Redelmeier explained, “We strive to sit lightly on the land. Our team at Southbrook was drawn to biodynamics as a way to more fully express the vineyard’s character in our wines. And we underwent the certification process as a way to authenticate our commitment to sustainable practices.”
Southbrook Meets the Standards
The standards for biodynamic farming are monitored by the Demeter organization which has even stricter regulations than those for organic farmers. Southbrook Vineyards met these rigorous standards after first being certified as organic by Pro-Cert Canada. Obtaining organic certification is a prerequisite for Demeter certification of a vineyard.
The First Biodynamic Wine in Canada
The Redelmeier’s roots are in farming and the winery started out in Richmond Hill, north of Toronto, when a decision was made to change from cattle farming to grape growing and winemaking. The family eventually decided to move production to Niagara, and in June of 2008, they opened a brand new LEED’s (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario.
Southbrook now owns 150 acres of vineyard in Niagara-on-the-Lake and is currently producing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Chardonnay. Southbrook’s 2008 estate grown wines contain certified organic and biodynamic grapes. Canada’s first biodynamic wine hit the market in the spring of 2009 with the release of Southbrook Vineyards’ 2008 Cabernet Rosé.
The Principals of Biodynamic Viticulture
In recent years, organic and biodynamic viticulture has gained popularity due to the general public’s increasing awareness of environmental and health issues, and the pursuit of less chemically-grown food and drink.
Although organic and biodynamic farming are not the same, they do have the same basic principal: the reliance on a healthy vine’s own ability to look after itself, given the right conditions, and not on chemical intervention to fight pests, diseases, and other problems.
Biodynamic farming is based on the work of Austrian social philosopher, Rudolph Steiner, who first introduced his ideas in 1924. He died the following year but his theories have lived on and have become the basis for the Waldorf method of education as well as biodynamic farming.
Biodynamic farming is very spiritual and views the farm holistically, as a self-sustaining living entity. Some of the other basic principals of biodynamic viticulture are:
- a belief that vineyard and winery operations are optimized when in conjunction with correct timing according to seasonal and cosmic rhythms. Vineyard practices, such as planting, spraying, and harvesting are governed by the positions of the planets and the phases of the moon.
- the prohibition of synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers with the belief that a healthy vine will be able to protect itself from pests and diseases.
- a belief that specially prepared manures and composts will produce a vital and living soil with healthy microbial populations. Healthy soil produces healthy, balanced vines. These special preparations include homeopathic blends that feature cow and horse manure, various types of compost, and a mixture of herbs, roots, and tree bark. Some of these concoctions may be made into sprays to be used at specific times to heighten their beneficial effects. An example is horn manure which is prepared by burying cow manure in a cow horn for six months over winter. It is then sprayed on the soil in the afternoon to maintain soil structure and humus levels and to encourage deeper vine roots.
Controversial Methods
While the number of vineyards around the world certified as biodynamic continues to increase, it remains a controversial farming regime. Followers strongly believe that biodynamic methods produce top-quality grapes that make excellent wines, and this is supported by many impressive results the world over. Others see it as mystical “hocus-pocus” with the impressive results being the result of meticulous viticutlural and winemaking techniques, generally employed by biodynamic winemakers, and not due to the biodynamic methods themselves. Since there is no scientific explanation to support biodynamics it will, no doubt, remain a controversial vineyard management system.
Southbrook Vineyards definitely believes in biodynamics. Ann Sperling is quoted on Southbrook’s website as saying, “Our goal at Southbrook is to make outstanding wine, and from the outset, we’ve witnessed the wonderful results that biodynamics has had on our wines. It’s startling – the vitality of these wines gives a whole new dimension.”
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